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I'm intending to try to propagate some hyacinths for the first time following these instructions http://homeguides.sfgate.com/propagate-hyacinth-65910.html which say that I need to cover the bulb with fungicide powder. But it doesn't look like I can buy fungicide as a ready-to-use powder in my country. Everything is either sprays or powders intended for adding water to before use. I've looked online, but there's just the same selection as in the stores.

What should I do?
Can I use the dilute-it-yourself powders without adding water to them?
Should I go to the pharmacy and buy some sort of, idk, athlete's foot powder?
Could I use something else as a substitute?



( 18 comments — Leave a comment )
Oct. 21st, 2016 03:20 am (UTC)
BTW: This process is called "bulb chipping"
And just about every bulb you care to name can be multiplied by bulb chipping.
Here's a video on it that would probably work for hyacinth bulbs too.

Can you buy Rootone rooting hormone powder where you live?
If you can, buy a small bottle of it and sprinkle your cut bulbs with it--because it's made with a fungicide in it.
Hope this helps.

Oct. 27th, 2016 07:48 am (UTC)
Thank you - I shall look out for Rootone. My current rooting powder doesn't say on the label whether it has fungicide in it, but if I can't find Rootone, I may well give it a shot with what I have.
Oct. 27th, 2016 10:50 am (UTC)
Please let us know how it turns out for you.
Oct. 29th, 2016 05:33 am (UTC)
I will post if it's successful, for sure!

I've been trying for 15 years to propagate all sorts of plants, and not a single one has worked; I keep trying but, well, if it works there will be no-one more surprised than me, and if it doesn't work, it'll be me, not the method, that's at fault!
Oct. 29th, 2016 10:56 am (UTC)
Please tell me what you've tried to propagate....and how you did it.
There are a few tricks to some stuff that will help to know....maybe I can throw a few ideas your way.
Speaking of propagation, I once had a hydrangea bush sprout from a broken branch that arrived at my house in a sackful of fall leaves. The bush is still going strong too.
Oct. 30th, 2016 12:13 am (UTC)
Ooh, thank you. I'm currently trying - for the third year running! - to propagate some bits from my neighbour's grape vine (which I have to cut back so it doesn't take over my garden). The first two times, I followed the instructions online and took the cuttings in autumn.

I cut the stems (too long, I think!) with a diagonal cut, wet and dipped the lowest inch of each in rooting powder, and pushed them into compost pots in my unheated greenhouse. I watered the soil at the time. I can't remember how often I watered after that, but the soil stayed at least moist. I didn't want to overwater it! But all that happened was that the cuttings rotted.

This year, I've tried in spring, with shorter cuttings, basically only one or two buds on each. They looked okish for the first couple of weeks, but now they've died back. Any advice you can give is greatly appreciated! :D

I would like to propagate from my lemon tree too, but I don't want to cut bits off it needlessly when I know I won't be able to get them to grow. I think I tried a few years ago on some cuttings when we trimmed it back, but they didn't work either, and I don't remember enough to tell you what I did.
Oct. 30th, 2016 03:47 am (UTC)
As far as grape vine rooting goes, I'd trust anything this website has to say about it:
This man is a expert on grapes and he sells cuttings each spring and has for years and years.
He also has some youtube video's on the subject.

Question: You have been letting your cuttings "callus" over haven't you? The callus is where the roots form.
You might also try layering a vine while it is still attached to the parent vine.
Nov. 2nd, 2016 08:54 am (UTC)
That's really helpful thank you, No, I hadn't been doing the callus stage - hadn't heard of it before! Would you also advise planting the cuttings upside down, as this site suggests?
Nov. 2nd, 2016 12:19 pm (UTC)
One thing to remember: There are a lot of different ways to root cuttings and no matter how crazy a method might sound, I guarantee that there's somebody out there who has been successful with it. (I once read an article written by a guy who swore he got better and quicker rooted cuttings by putting leftover coffee in the rooting water!)

If there are still some of your neighbor's vines on your side of the fence, you might try putting a PARTIAL CUT on a leaf node in hopes of producing a callus while the cutting is still part of the mother plant. (As a matter of fact, if I were you, I'd do a bunch of them--at least one might be successful.)
Be sure and tuck a piece of tooth pick into the cut to hold it open. Then take the cuttings next spring for rooting.
Hope this helps.
Nov. 7th, 2016 08:42 pm (UTC)
You might also want to try just getting a four-liter pot of potting soil (intended for vegetables and fruits grown in containers), and secure part of one of the minor cordons onto the soil surface, or actually bury in below the surface.
Leave leaves unburied.
Then leave your pot to sit at least until spring (2017, and I'm assuming you're in the northern hemisphere) or even a full year. Many grapevines, although not all varieties nor under all conditions, will make adventitious roots if their vines or cordons are allowed to make contact with the soil. Since they also make roots even faster than they grow the trunk and the cordons this can be a true nuisance if they get out of control.
Grapevines are pretty tough, basically, so don't even worry about watering unless you're in an arid climate. Some are centuries and centuries old, and if I'm recalling correctly there are some vines in parts of Europe which are pushing or have passed the millennium mark.

If yours (or your neighbor's) grape variety isn't one which makes adventitious roots, you'll have lost nothing but some potting soil and only a very little time. If it does make adventitious roots, you have a new plant and if the cuttings you take also root for you, that many more.

If you haven't grown grapes before now, remember to start trellising and training from the very start. Let to their own devices they want to sprawl on the ground and/or climb trees. (I finally had to resort to deliberately killing one which had gone to a 60-something-foot treetop, by severing it from its own main stem.)

By the way, what variety is your neighbor's grapevine?
Nov. 2nd, 2016 08:58 am (UTC)
(Also, may I friend you?)
Nov. 2nd, 2016 12:20 pm (UTC)
Please do! May I friend you in return?
Nov. 2nd, 2016 10:03 pm (UTC)
Please do :)
Nov. 3rd, 2016 01:33 am (UTC)
And I just did!
Oct. 22nd, 2016 05:41 pm (UTC)
There are fungicidal applications which have been in use for a very, very long time, and you ought to be able to put at least one of them together at home.

In no particular order:




I don't know that this will help with your hyacinth bulbs (which do grow off-sets which can later be removed and planted to be grown on to produce more flowering bulbs), but home garlic growers, including myself, use this soak for the garlic buds to prevent fungal diseases:
one quart water (946 ml)
one Tablespoon liquid seaweed (14.787 ml liquid seaweed---this is a commercial preparation)
one tablespoon baking soda (14.787 ml NaHCO3)

The buds/"cloves" are allowed to soak in this solution for about 2 hours before planting.

I imagine it wouldn't do your hyacinth bulbs any harm.

I believe that if I were in your situation, I first of all would absolutely NOT use the powders without diluting them. If I elected to use one of those powders, I'd follow the directions and I'd use the dilute solution. Remember, bulbs sit in the ground, sometimes in wet or even very wet ground, before blooming in the spring, and take no harm from it.

Then, being the person that I am, I'd most likely look for some "old time" formula for an antifungal for my hyacinth bulbs (actually, I've never treated mine with any antifungal and they seem to do just fine, but I only plant them and let the bulbs do their thing until they need to be lifted and the offsets taken, rather than intentionally propagating them.)

The only other thought I can offer is that many of the antifungal powders in use here in the U.S. contain copper, a known antifungal, usually in the form of copper sulfate. Look for that. It's used for the "Bordeaux" mixture in the second of the three links provided, above.
Oct. 27th, 2016 07:51 am (UTC)
That's really useful, thank you. I had wondered about baking powder (it has so many uses!). I also like the idea of trying to source some copper sulfate.
Oct. 28th, 2016 06:16 pm (UTC)
Actually, you'll want baking soda, not baking powder.

Baking soda is NaHCO3 (Sodium hydrogen carbonate.)

Baking powder is a mixture and as such doesn't have a formula, exactly, but will be NaHCO3 (baking soda) plus a dry acid such as tartaric acid; we in the U.S. most usually use a double-acting baking powder, meaning it needs both moisture and heat to get it doing what we need it to do (lighten batters and increase their volume, basically.) This mixture may contain an inert starch to help to keep it dry until used.

What you really want is baking soda if you're going to use it as an antifungal.
And you're right: it does indeed have so very many uses!
Oct. 29th, 2016 05:34 am (UTC)
Very good point - I always get those mixed up!
( 18 comments — Leave a comment )


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